St Botolph, Burgh, sits on a little mound, suggesting an ancient foundation. In fact, there may be more to it than that, and the probably ancient dedication of the church is well-founded. Although early antiquarians identified this as the site of the Roman Combretonium, I believe that today Coddenham, six miles or so to the west, is generally felt to be the actual site. Indeed, Dr Sam Newton, the author of The Origins of Beowulf, argues that this site here at Burgh has far greater significance as an earlier double-ramparted Iron Age enclosure which, despite the traces of some Roman remains, appears not to have been settled significantly in the early centuries of the first Christian millennium
There is a fairly steep climb up to the south side, but this is a rewarding walk, because the church is set in one of the most interesting small graveyards in Suffolk, even without the presence of St Botolph. Unfortunately, some of the stones on the south side have been laid flat, a practice which will inevitably result in their destruction, although at least here the turf has been cleared around each stone to protect it from the lawnmowers.
Rushing in to this feast of Kempe, you might not notice one of the oldest door handles in East Anglia, a big, confident 13th Century iron ring on a domed plate. Extraordinary to think it has been doing the same job for more than seven hundred years. Other medieval survivals include the 15th Century font, which, although recut, includes some interesting images, including an angel holding a seamless garment.
St Botolph is militantly open and welcoming, every day. And this is good, because it has one of the best collections of glass by the Kempe workshop anywhere in Suffolk. A couple of windows that do not contain Kempe glass are interesting because their designs are not only good, but early, from the 1840s. The best is an absolutely delightful image of Christ as the Good Shepherd. A delicious Art Nouveau memorial to a former Rector is another artistic highlight.
Unusually, Burgh retains Rolls of Honour for both the First and Second World Wars. As almost anywhere in England, more Burgh people fought in World War Two, but fewer died. Even if you know this to be true, it is stark to see it displayed in a finely lettered hand.
This is not a big church, and as you might expect there is a downside to all this wonderful rich glass - the inside of the church is rather gloomy. And yet, it is very characterful, even atmospheric - I thought it would be a splendid place to sit out a storm, or to come across in the smoky grey light of a November afternoon.
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