The Navel of the World EarthCache
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An earthcache for suitable for all cachers located in popular Beacon Rock State Park, along the Columbia River.
The local Indians fittingly called this place Che-che-op-tin, meaning “the Navel of the World.” When first discovered in October of 1805, Lewis and Clark called it "Beaten Rock." During their return trip in the spring of 1806, the name “Beacon Rock” was used in their journals. In 1811 Alexander Ross, part of the John Jacob Astor expedition of 1811, called it “Inoshoack Castle.” Later pioneers referred to it as “Castle Rock.” Finally in 1916, the United States Board on Geographic Names officially restored William Clark’s name of “Beacon Rock.”
Standing next to the Columbia River at 848 feet tall, Beacon Rock is actually the exposed basaltic andesite lava core of a small, ancient volcano, maybe six million years old, although most estimates range from three to nine million. More recent research (2004) suggests that the volcano in question could be as young as 50 to 60 thousand years old. Irrespective of how old it is, the volcano probably looked much like you might imagine – more like a small mountain than the huge rock it is today.
Fast forward to about 18,000 years ago, during the time of the last ice age. A finger of ice advanced into Idaho and formed a dam of ice at what is now Lake Pend Oreille and blocking the Clark Fork River drainage. It created an enormous lake, known today as Glacial Lake Missoula, which backed up into the mountain valleys of western Montana. Glacial Lake Missoula grew to massive size, at times containing over 500 cubic miles of water – more than Lakes Erie and Ontario combined. As the lake deepened and grew, the ice began to float. The developing leaks grew, causing the ice dam to suddenly and catastrophically fail, releasing the full volume of the lake, which was over 2,000 feet deep near the ice dam. The water sped across the Columbia Basin, moving at speeds approaching 65 miles per hour. As the water entered the Columbia Gorge, it was 1,000 feet deep, and moved as fast as 90 miles per hour as it funneled through the channel.
As the water moved, it stripped away soil, cut deep canyons and carved areas of stark scabland. Some of the eroded soil (more than 50 cubic miles!) was deposited, creating new landforms. Most of this soil was carried far out into the Pacific Ocean. Over a period of about 2,500 years, dozens of Glacial Lake Missoulas were formed and released in this manner, flooding the Columbia Basin and traveling out through the gorge. It was this flooding action that was responsible for eroding the mountainous soil that once surround Beacon Rock, and exposing it as we see it today.
Other interesting tidbits about Beacon Rock:
- Beacon Rock is considered the 2nd largest single rock monolith in the world, second only to the Rock of Gibralter.
- Lewis and Clark first noted tidal influences here, indicating to them that their long journey was nearing an end.
- Charles E. Ladd bought Beacon Rock in 1904 when he learned that it might be quarried for rock. He sold the rock to Henry J. Biddle for $1 in 1915 with the stipulation that the rock be preserved.
- Henry Biddle purchased the rock specifically to take on the challenge of building a trail to the top, which he constructed from 1916 to 1918.
- In 1935, Henry Biddle's heirs donated Beacon Rock to Washington State for use as a park. Then Governor Hartley initially refused the offer, but changed his mind when a similar offer was made to Oregon.
- Nicholas Biddle, an ancestor of Henry Biddle, edited the first (1814) edition of the Lewis and Clark Journals.
How to log this earthcache: Please email me answers to the questions on the same day that you log your successful find of this earthcache. Do not include the answers in your online log. Online logs without the answers emailed to me on the same day risk deletion. If you are concerned that there could be an issue, save your answers in the "Personal Cache Note" section near the top of the cache page. (That might be good general practice, anyway.)
- E-mail me answers to the following two questions: A) What does Beacon Rock boast spectacular examples of? Be specific, and tell me how it is formed. The answers to these two questions are easily found at (within a few feet of) the site. Make sure to take the time to find them as incorrect answers sent to me could get your log deleted. B) The posted coordinates take you to the south end (more or less) of a natural feature in the parking lot. What is it? (Beacon Rock is not correct!) Do not include the answers to these questions in your online log.
- Log your find of this earthcache online, and send the answers to the questions at the same time. Photos are no longer required for earthcaches, but I would love to see photos from your visit. However, if your answers to the above questions are incorrect, a posted photo of yourself at the earthcache site with your log could be the only thing that might keep your log from being deleted.
One other note: Please be aware that this area can be very busy at times. Keep your eyes open, and your hands on the little ones as the traffic through here can be unpredictable. It is a congested area.
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- The geocache may be placed on Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission managed property only by written permission from the Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission.
- The following items shall not be placed in the geocache: Food items; illegal substances; medications; personal hygiene products, pornographic materials; inappropriate, offensive, or hazardous materials or weapons of any type. Log books are required for each cache and are to be provided by the owner of the cache.
- It is the visitor’s responsibility to orient themselves with policies and rules pertaining to State Parks areas.
- Report any incident, problem, or violation to State Parks staff.
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Additional Hints
(Decrypt)
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