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Nacionalni park Paklenica prostire se na primorskoj padini južnog Velebita, neposredno iznad naselja Marasovici. The area of Paklenica National Park stretches on the littoral slope of South Velebit directly above the settlement of Marasovici.
Nacionalni park Paklenica je najznacajniji hrvatski penjacki centar, poznat i izvan granica Hrvatske. Posebnu draž ovom penjalištu daje i blizina morske obale, pa je Paklenicka rivijera idealno mjesto za kombinaciju penjanja i sportova na vodi. Povijest alpinizma u Paklenici pocinje davne 1938. godine kada je Dragutin Brahm pokušao ispenjati Anica kuk. Na žalost, pri tome je smrtno stradao. Dvije godine kasnije, Slavko Brezovecki i Marijan Dragman dovršavaju Brahmov smjer. Slijedi razdoblje u kojem su hrvatski penjaci ispenjali smjerove koji danas važe za klasicne smjerove u Paklenici. Rijec je o smjerovima kao što su Mosoraški, Velebitaški, Klin, Funkcija. Od godine 1970. slovenski alpinisti dolaze u Nacionalni park Paklenicu i polako preuzimaju inicijativu u postavljanju novih smjerova. Danas na paklenickim penjalištima postoji više od 360 opremljenih i uredenih smjerova razlicitih težina i dužina pa svaki penjac može pronaci ponešto za svoj užitak. Glavna penjacka sezona u Paklenici pocinje u proljece i traje do kasno u jesen. SAVJETI PENJACIMA Sigurnosna oprema: Iako je kaciga nepopularna medu sportskim penjacima, uvijek postoji i najmanja mogucnost ozljede glave (krušljiva stijena, penjanje više dužina, ...). Zato svakako stavite kacigu na glavu. Alpinistima je kaciga obvezni dio opreme. Provjera opreme: Kada kupujete ili posudujete opremu, pogledajte ima li oznaku sigurnosnog standarda koji jamci da je oprema prošla potrebna ispitivanja. Pazite od koga posudujete opremu. Karabiner, sprava za osiguravanje, ili bilo koji drugi dio metalne ili plasticne opreme koji je s visine pao na tvrdu površinu valja smatrati nepouzdanim i po mogucnosti baciti. Na njemu se mogu pojaviti nevidljive pukotine i lomovi, što može uzrokovati pucanje metala ili plastike. Provjeravajte svoje i partnerovo znanje rukovanja opremom i tehnikama Osiguravatelji su znali uzrokovati ozbiljne nezgode lošim rukovanjem spravom za osiguravanje. I najiskusniji penjaci znali su se krivo navezati na uže ili nisu dva puta provukli remen od pojasa kroz sigurnosnu kopcu. Ove stvari uvijek ponovo provjeravajte i po nekoliko puta. Komunicirajte s partnerom Osiguravatelj i penjac uvijek bi trebali znati što onaj drugi ima na umu. Kada penjac dode do štanda od životne je važnosti da osiguravatelj zna što su namjere penjaca, hoce li se privezivati, spustiti, abseilati ili penjati dalje. Informiranje o penjalištu Raspitajte se o smjeru koji penjete, dužini, težini, kvaliteti spitova i štanda. Cesto su se nesrece dogadale jer bi uže bilo prekratko pa bi kraj užeta „procurio“ kroz spravu za osiguravanje ili na vrhu ne bi bilo štanda ili bi bio na starim spitovima. Treninzi Redovito odlazite na sportsko penjacke treninge u dvorane s umjetnom stijenom. To ce vam omoguciti da steknete dovoljno snage i gipkosti, no oni nikako ne smiju biti zamjena za penjanje u prirodi na stijeni vec samo dodatni trening. Redovito odlazite na penjacke ili alpinisticke izlete. Samo cete redovitim penjanjem steci potrebno iskustvo, znanje i sigurnost. Ako ste imali dulju pauzu, a spremate se na sportsko-penjacki izlet, svakako ponovite tehnike osiguravanja, ukopcavanja i prevezivanja na štandu, a za alpinisticki izlet uz sve ovo obnovite još i znanje postavljanja meduosiguranja, izrade sidrišta i tehnike abseilanja. ANG: Paklenica National Park is the most visited climbing center in Croatia, also popular outside Croatia. The close proximity of seawater gives this climbing site a special charm, making Paklenica Riviera an ideal place to combine climbing and water sports. The history of alpinism in Paklenica began way back in 1938 when Dragutin Brahm tried to climb Anica kuk. Unfortunately, he died trying. Two years later, Slavko Brezovecki and Marijan Dragman completed Brahm’ route. After that, Croatian climbers climbed all routes that are now established routes in Paklenica. They are routes such as Mosoraški, Velebitaški, Klin, Funkcija. Since 1970, Slovenian alpinists have visited Pakelnica National Park and have slowly taken the initiative in establishing new routes Today, there are over 360 equipped and improved routes of various difficulty levels and lengths within Paklenica’s climbing sites, so each climber can find to their liking. The main climbing season begins in spring and goes on until late autumn. ADVICE FOR CLIMBERS Safety equipment: Although a helmet is unpopular among sport climbers, there is always a possibility of a head injury (loose rock, climbing multiple lengths…), so make sure you put your helmet on. A helmet is a required part of an alpinist’s equipment. Equipment check: When purchasing or borrowing equipment, check for a safety standard sign guaranteeing the equipment has undergone the required tests. Be careful who you borrow your equipment from. The safety hook or any other part of metal or plastic equipment that falls on a hard surface from a height should be considered unreliable and preferably discarded. It may sustain invisible cracks or breakages, which may cause metal or plastic to break. Check your own and your partner’s knowledge of handling the equipment and techniques: Belay partners have caused serious accidents by mishandling the securing device. Even the most experienced climbers have been known to secure themselves to the rope in a wrong way or fail to run the belt through the safety buckle. Check these things several times. Communicate with your partner The belay partner and the climber should always know what the other one has in mind. When the climber comes to the stand, it is of surmount importance that the belay partner know what the climber intends to do – whether he will tie himself, descend, abseil or keep on climbing. Information on the climbing site Inquire about the direction you are climbing, the length, difficulty level, the quality of spits and stand. Accidents have often happened because the rope was too short and the end of the rope would slip through the securing device or there was no stand on the top, or the stand was on old spits. Training Regularly practice sport climbing in a gym with an artificial rock. This will enable you to gain enough energy and elasticity, but this can in no way be a substitution for climbing in nature on a rock, merely additional practice. Regularly take climbing or alpinist trips because only regular practice will provide you with the required experience, knowledge and confidence. If you have taken a longer break, and you plan to take a sport climbing trip, make sure you repeat the securing, buckling and stand-tying techniques. For an alpinist trip, refresh your knowledge of setting up inter-security, making anchors, and the abseiling technique.
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