St John the Baptist, St Mary and St
Laurence, Thaxted
© Stephen Nunney, licensed for reuse under a
CreativeCommons
Licence.
Construction of the current Parish Church first began around
1340 with the erection of the nave arches. The building was added
to over the following 170 years, each new section being more
ambitious than the last, as improving building techniques and the
increasing prosperity of the town allowed. Thus, for example, the
two aisles are significantly wider than the nave itself. The last
parts to be built were the Chancel and its chapels, probably
replacing the original Saxon church, the nave clerestory, and the
roof, completed in 1510. The church is often described as the
Cathedral of Essex. The tower with its 181 ft (55 m)
spire — thought to be the only mediæval stone spire in Essex
— can be seen for many miles around.
The exterior
The North (King's) Porch and the earlier South (Duke's) Porch are
both vaulted, with a room above each reached by a turreted spiral
staircase. The King's Porch bears the arms of King Edward IV, while
the Duke's has the coronet of Lionel, Duke of Clarence.
There are many fine carvings around the church, including
gargoyles, spouts and a pair of 'wild men' over the north porch. A
booklet available in the church describes them well.
At the eastern end, note the typically mid-Tudor 'walls of
glass', which give the church an airy, spacious feel.
Then there is the magnificent spire with its flying buttresses
atop the tower, originally completed about 1485. This is the third
spire, erected in 1822, two earlier ones having been destroyed by
lightning and wind. The tower houses a peal of eight bells, the
tenor weighing a hefty 15 cwt (563 kg).
The interior
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The interior includes a number of impressive
decorations, including carved heads on the nave arches; the painted
ceilings of the Chancel and its chapels; the stella, the great
42-light candelabra in the cross-aisle, and some early stained
glass — the Adam and Eve window in the South Aisle dates from
c1450, while the picture of a knight in the South Transept dates
from about 1341). |
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Around the Chancel are four chapels. To the left (north) is the
chapel of St Thomas (Becket) of Canterbury, to the right (south)
that of "Our Lady and St Anne", the mother and grandmother of
Christ.
The Chancel and Becket chapel
In the South transept is the chapel of St Catherine of
Alexandria, portrayed in a carving by Siegfried Pietzch with the
wheel on which she was martyred. The north transept was originally
dedicated to St Laurence, Bishop of Rome and the patron saint of
the town's cutlers. It now houses the older of two organs in the
church, the 'Lincoln ' organ (c1820), now sadly unplayable.
Rev Conrad Noel
At the crossing there is a fine bronze head by Gertrude Hermes of
the Rev Conrad Noel, known as the "Red Vicar" of Thaxted. In the
early years of the 20th century (for the exact date you will need
to find the clue in cache Thoroughly Thaxted 1!), the local
landowner Daisy, Countess of Warwick, once a scandously celebrated
socialite but later dedicated to radical Socialism, appointed
Father Noel, a Christian Socialist, to the living of Thaxted. He
was a man of enormous energy and talent and, with Lady Warwick's
support, transformed Thaxted into a maelstrom of political and
cultural activity. He joined the Independent Labour Party and in
1911 became a founding member of the British Socialist Party. He
remained vicar in Thaxted until his death in 1942.
Conrad Noel’s most notorious action was to hang the
red flag of the Socialist movement and the flag of Sinn Féin
alongside the flag of St George in the Church. Flags can arouse
passionate feelings, as was demonstrated by the resulting
long-running "Battle of the Flags" which disrupted Thaxted for
several years. Cambridge undergraduates journeyed here regularly to
remove the flags. They led attacks on the church and ceremoniously
pulled the flags down, sparking off fist-fights and other
disturbances. Noel himself was accused of sedition in the House of
Commons. Eventually a consistory court ruled against his displaying
the flags and Noel obeyed the ruling.
He founded the Catholic Crusade to propagate his views, which
had some impact in the origins of Trotskyism in Britain. Conrad was
inevitably dubbed "The Red Vicar" by the popular press as a result
of his actions and beliefs.
But Fr Noel's undoubted charisma, and his insistence that
Christianity was about beauty and ritual, too, attracted many
well-known artists, musicians and folklorists to Thaxted. It is no
coincidence that the Morris Ring found a friendly home in the town
(see
Thoroughly Thaxted 2). For several years the composer Gustav Holst and Noel
collaborated on musical events, and the celebrated Thaxted
Festival, first held in 1916, still takes place in the church over
four weeks every June and July.
The 1952 organ is a memorial to Conrad Noel.
Thanks are due to Thaxted Parish Council for
the information in this section.
You are welcome to add churches to this series. If you
wish to do so, please let
sadexploration know first so he can keep track of the church
numbers and names to avoid duplication.